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How Green is my Label?
Over the past few years the architecture
and design community have become increasingly aware of the importance
of selecting and using products designed and produced in an environmentally
responsible manner. This is growing awareness has resulted in some
confusion with terms such as 'ecofriendly', 'organic' and 'biodegradable'.
What exactly do they mean? How does one negotiate the environmental
claims of suppliers competing in an ever-aggressive marketplace
to ensure that the products are what they claim to be?
The leather case:
Since 1999 Sydney-based company Contemporary Leathers has been supplying
chrome-free leathers in Australia. These hides were originally supplied
by the Danish tannery Swewi, but they are now supplied by Swedish
tannery Elmo Leathers, who bought out Swewi a few years ago.
The term chrome-free is an understated environmental
claim, given that Elmosoft meets the World's Best Practice in environmental
responsibility. While the processing of Elmosoft shares many similarities
with 'organic' processing principles, Contemporary Leathers has
preferred to use the term chrome-free rather than 'organic'. Why
is this?
David Gourlay of Contemporary Leathers explains, "To
claim that leather is 'organic', the hides must come from fully
organic animals. For example, the feedstock must be organic, there
must be not sue of pesticides etc. throughout the total production
cycle and the whole system must be fully integrated and assessed.
This means that the 'organic' claim should also be independently
verified by a certification body such as the National Association
for Sustainable Agriculture Australia (NASAA)."
This move to maintain clarity in labelling is reinforced
by Contemporary Leathers' environmental officer, Tracy Mak, who
explains, "We want to ensure that our claims are accurate,
as laid out in the International Environmental Labelling Standard
(ISO 14021), and not misleading".
There is much more to 'organic' than merely the absence
of toxic substances such as heavy metals, PCP, formaldehyde, solvents
and the forbidden azo dyes. One important factor is that it requires
a totally integrated Environment Management Systems (EMS). Elmo
operates such a system - EMS ISO 14001 that is internationally recognised.
Like many of the more (and often Northern European)
progressive manufacturing entities, who strive to reach environmental
performance goals for social as well as legal perspectives, Elmo
is a strong example of a company with a policy of continual improvement.
They have gone beyond the requirements to meet standards and the
strict legislation imposed by Scandinavian Governments. For example,
it will become the first tannery to reduce nitrogen emissions by
80 percent with the installation of a new treatment plant. The installation
reinforces a commitment to maintaining a position as the world's
most environmentally progressive tannery.
Elmo has long been recognised by the Lederinstitut
Gerberschule Reutlingen in Germany, the world's leading leather
training, testing and research insititute. Their premium product
Elmosoft has been certified with the organisation's Eco Label as
being produced in an environmentally responsible way and tested
for hazardous substances. Furthermore, the tannery is currently
in the process of gaining Oeko Tex 100 certification for Elmosoft.
All of the company's leathers are tested to ISO performance standards.
The results are available on sample cards or upon request from their
distributor Contemporary Leathers.
So, when selecting any product, there amongst the
abundance of marketing material, is a suite of international labelling
protocols in place for identifying the true environmental specifications
of products. In the case of leather (or any product being marketed
with a green feel), the savvy specifier will be sure to ask their
supplier for independent clarification of environmental claims.
In doing so, the industry, consumer and the environment will all
benefit. EmcE
For more info contact Contemporary Leathers Tel: +61
2 9317 0222 or visit: www.contemporaryleathers.com.au
Other resources include:
United Nations Environment Program - www.unep.org
Responsible Interior Designers - www.green.net.au/srd
Ecospecifier - www.ecospecifier.com.au
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